Ribbed-To-Fit Boot Socks

Edit: Thank you for your marvelous feedback! I am re-writing this pattern with that in mind, using Vintage worsted weight. The original socks are now full of holes in the heel. Very loved. Stay tuned, and I will add a link when that's finished!

These socks came about from high-quality, inexpensive yarn local to Prince Edward Island, in Canada. This is just a quick draft, but an experienced knitter should be able to make sense of most of it...I hope. In point of fact, I'm not totally done with the first one yet. Here she is so far!

Materials:

2 colors, 1 skein each worsted-heavy worsted weight yarn (I used MacAusland's 3 ply, but I think Cascade 220 would be a readily available equivalent) makes 4 socks or 2 pairs

set of 5 double point needles, size 8

Gauge: about 4 sts = 1", but it's not vital to the pattern.

Provisionally cast on 4 sts with yarn A, using yarn B as a stitch holder.

K 6 rows St st, end after a knit row. PU 4 sts on needle 2. Slide cast on stitches onto needle 3, keeping the contrasting yarn still in the stitches. This helps differentiate the needles for increase rounds. PU 4 sts on needle 4.

Rnd 1, 3, 5: K all sts

2: each needle k1 kfb k1 kfb

4, 6: each needle k1 kfb k1 kfb k to end

7-10: k all STS.

About halfway through round 11, which again is k all STS, I broke yarn A and joined yarn B as follows:

Note: this will only work with yarn that can be felted!!

With about 8" of A and B attached

 to the ball, wet 2" of each end with water (spit works fine too). Overlap the two ends and roll vigorously between palms until the two yarns become one. Basically, you're felting the two yarns together. It's my favorite way to avoid weaving in ends.

Finish round 11 with the remaining length of A. 

Rnd 12: k1 p2 *(k2 p2) rep from * until 1 st before the end of needle 2, k to end of round. 

NOTE: at this point I have all 20 sts of ribbing on one needle and the st sts on 2, making my total needles used 4- three holding stitches and one working needle.

Rep round 12 (28) times, or until you get to the heel. If you try on the sock, the top edge should touch where your shin meets your ankle without stretching the sock.

For the heel: k1 p2 *K2 P2 rep from * 4 times, K1. DO NOT BREAK YARN!

You will begin knitting with yarn A for the short rows.

Holding yarn A and yarn B together, K1. Drop yarn B, cont w/ yarn A.

With yarn A, K to one st before end of round, wrap and turn. You will have knit 18 sts,
P17 sts, w&t.
K16 sts, w&t.
P15 sts w&t.
K14 sts, w&t.
P13 sts, w&t.
K12 sts, w&t.
P11 sts, w&t.
K10 sts, w&t.
P9.  sts w&t
If this looks like a good size half-heel, continue as below. If you need more short rows, add them in sequence.

Now we reverse the short rows, which I start a trifle differently:
K11, w&t.
P12, w&t
K13, w&t
P14, w&t
K15 w&t
P16, w&t
K17, w&t
P18, w&t

Now you are where you dropped yarn B. Pick it up while dropping yarn A. Slide the last knit stitch from needle 1 (which is needle 1 and 2 combined, as previously noted) onto needle 2 (or 3, if you didn't combine the needles the way I did above. You should have one stitch that is in just yarn B and one stitch that is A and B. K those two sts into one, and K the rest of the sts to one before the end of the round.

Slide the stitch from the last round onto needle 1 and K2tog.
 P2, *k2, p2 rep from * 4 times, kfb, k to end.
Kfb, p2,  *k2, p2 rep from * 4 times, k to end

Rep rnd 12 (3) times

Keeping in pattern, k2 p2 all the way around. Stay in yarn B for 15 rounds. You will have 18 rounds above the heel color change. Join yarn A to yarn B as before,

Continue in pattern until you have 3 rounds of A knit, then break and join yarn as before with yarn B. K 5 more rounds. Bind off VERY loosely-I actually still need to get to this step with my pattern, I'll revise this with a specific bind off at that point.

So that's my first pattern offering!